Below is my rambling comments and suggestions regarding your two week trip itinerary:
- General. If you have an iPhone, get a digital Suica card. Open the Wallet app, tap the "+" button, select "Transit Card" and choose Suica from the list. Make sure to use a credit card that does not charge a foreign transaction fee. With a favorable exchange rate, now may be a good time to add funds to your digital Suica card. If you still have your physical Suica card from the November 2023 trip, then you probably only need to add funds while at the airport or station. At a few select stations in Tokyo, some gates now have the ability to accept credit cards and ApplyPay in lieu of tapping your Suica card.
- General. Restaurants in Tokyo and Kyoto that are Michelin expensive and hard to get dinner reservations might have reasonable lunch menus and availability. In general, I like finding inexpensive hole-in-the-wall restaurants in hidden alleys and off the tourist path but with thousands of restaurants in any given location, it can be hit or miss. Using Google Map and Tabelog app or website (https://tabelog.com/en/) might assist in influencing your choice and making online reservations. Local residents use Tabelog and they usually don't give a restaurant a four star or higher. If you see a 3.5 or higher score, it is probably a good place. However, local residents and Americans have differing tastes.
If you use Google Map to read restaurant reviews and find a restaurant review that states the restaurant only caters to locals and not to foreigners or are racists, it is more likely a case of miscommunication and cultural misunderstanding. Tourists think local residents and all service sector employees can speak English. I would say based on my experience that very few Japanese can speak English. Language barriers are a common problem. Restaurants could care less about giving an arrogant and ignorant tourist any attention. If you have an issue with a restaurant, just move on to another one and don't let one person or restaurant ruin your vacation.
While there are over 40 different Japanese Cuisines and many foreign tourists are unsure what to try after sushi, tempura, and ramen, I like to break it up with the vast variety of Italian, Chinese, hamburger, pizza, casual chain restaurants and of course 7/11. Whenever I feel like a burger, I usually go to Shake Shack near Tokyo Station. The Shake Shack in Kyoto is surrounded by many notable coffee cafes and highly rated restaurants so it is easy to pass on Shake Shack until I get home.
If you want to try the best unagi, wagyu beef, okonomiyaki, takoyaki, tonkatsu, gyoza, sushi, ramen, soba, etc, only go to a restaurant that specializes in that dish and nothing else.
If you go to a restaurant that has an English menu, flashing neon lights in English, and foreign tourists filling the place, while it could be good, local residents will avoid it and the restaurant probably caters to the international tourists willing to spend more with the favorable exchange rate.
Major department stores have multiple restaurant floors that many tourists may not consider or are not aware of their existence. I recall you went to a tempura restaurant inside the Mitsukoshi Department store while we were in Ginza. One of the best tonkatsu restaurants in Tokyo that is affordable is Katsukura inside the Shinjuku Takashimaya department store.
Japanese chain restaurants, the Denny’s of Japan (Royal Host, Ootoya, Jonathan's, Gusto’s, YAYOI, etc) and chain coffee cafes (Komeda Coffee, Tully’s Coffee, Doutor Coffee, Excelsior Caffé, etc) are inexpensive and surprisingly good for the on-the-go or the tired traveler looking for a place to take a break.
- General. Whenever you and your son get on a very crowded train or subway line and have to stand in a packed car, ALWAYS keep both your hands high up on the ceiling rail bar or strap. If someone touches a woman in a crowded car, the woman could quickly accuse you of touching her but once everyone sees your hands high above your head, they can’t point the finger at you. If police get involved, the accused is automatically determined to be guilty unless the train video shows their hands on the top rail. Although it is an extremely rare occurrence, the best thing is to avoid the PM peak trains, find a window seat or avoid packed like sardines trains. I’ve ridden on packed subway and train lines many times but have never ever witnessed anything remote other than an eerie silent train ride. However, Chiari always reminds me to put my hands high up on a crowded train. While it is highly unlikely to occur at any time, there are odd individuals worldwide and business men who had one too many drinks. If you happen to get into a packed train, avoid standing in front of the door, otherwise, you have to exit to let passengers out then reenter the car at each station.
- General. Try to avoid bringing any medication or check online on what is allowed. Certain prescription drugs are illegal in Japan as it has very strict rules on drugs and gun control. Pharmacies in Japan are known for high quality over-the-counter medicines, sunscreen lotion, and skin care products. If you happen to browse through a pharmacy chain store, go to the back where you will find soft drinks and bottled water that cost less than a convenience store.
- General. Recall during the November 2023 trip we walked the basement food level at several major department stores in Tokyo. All the major department stores have a food floor or hall. At Kyoto Station, Isetan is a major department store with two basement levels (B1 and B2) for food. In downtown Kyoto, you can go to Takashimaya and Daimaru. In Tokyo, in addition to Mitsukoshi Ginza (the one we visited in 2023), check out Takashimaya in Shinjuku and Nihonbashi, Isetan in Shinjuku, Daimaru Tokyo next to Tokyo Station, and Matsuya Ginza. Most of the department stores including Ginza Six have an outdoor rooftop to walk, rest and sit to eat takeout.
Recall we went to the Kitte Building rooftop to view the Tokyo Station at night prior to our reservation at a sushi restaurant. This rooftop observation deck prohibits eating food while sitting and enjoying the view.
- General. After the November 2023 group trip, everyone said they had a great time and experience. Three years later, you will likely have a good time but your expectations could be tempered by over-tourism and rude tourists who are creating unpleasant problems. Residents and businesses are beginning to protest. This puts the innocent tourist in an uncomfortable bind. As long as you maintain etiquette and respect (keep quiet on local trains and subways; respect waiting lines; do not eat while walking; do not tip as it is considered an insult, try to learn a few words; never block or slow down while through a station gate, when you get on an escalator, check to see which side is a standing lane and which is the passing lane, and etc), you should be fine and will hopefully not run into a irate service sector employee who dislikes tourists and is fed up with work life.
Each time I go to Japan, I enjoy it more as I become more familiar with small things (Suica card, 7/11 and Lawson convenience stores, mass transit system, getting lost in unknown restaurant alleyways, autumn fall colors, safe late evening walks, etc) but each time I noticed with more international tourists that they create noise, litter, higher hotel prices, and the loss of tranquility and charm. Graffiti is now showing up where before, it was non-existent. Sad.
- General. As you know from the 2023 trip, going to convenience stores (7/11, Lawson, Family Mart, etc.) is a daily ritual to find a variety of interesting items. The 7/11 smoothie cups in the frozen section with the mixing machine near the front counter are popular. The fried chicken is arguably the best at Family Mart. The top three convenience chain stores are now having a coffee war on who offers the best hot and iced coffee. Egg salad, ham and strawberry cream sandwiches on soft milk bread, onigiri (rice balls), carbonara pasta, a variety of pastry items, and ice cream sandwiches make great in between meal snacks or late night fulfillment.
- General. Japan Rail Pass - When the November 2023 travel group used the Japan Rail Pass to ride the Shinkansen, the rail pass at that time did not permit rail pass users to board the Nozomi Shinkansen, which is the fastest in the system. Although the current Rail Pass now allows you to use the Nozomi, you have to pay a supplemental fee. The upgrade fee between Tokyo and Kyoto is 4960 yen ($31). I really do not see the point of upgrading unless you are on business or urgently need to make your destination. When you get an advance Shinkansen ticket from Kyoto to Tokyo, avoid taking the Shinkansen labeled Kodama, which stops at every station. As you know, Kyoto Station and Tokyo Station are vast and have many underground and upper floor stores that you may want to check out before heading to the platform. Although I’ve been to these stations many times, I still cannot maneuver from point to point without getting lost.
- General. When you get your Shinkansen tickets to travel from Kyoto to Tokyo, reserve seat D/E so you might be able to view Mount Fuji on a clear day. Shortly after passing Shizuoka, you will start seeing Mount Fuji until you are near Mishima Station. On previous trips, whenever I see Mount Fuji on the Shinkansen, I’m the only person looking and taking pictures while everyone else is sleeping, have their window screen closed, looking at their iPhone, or playing with their game console. Since you will be going in early October, you probably won’t see any snow cap.
- General. If you are planning a few long distance trips with the Shinkansen and enjoy the customary pleasure of eating ekibento during the train ride, get to the station early to look around for a bento shop. There are an overwhelming number of bento boxes to choose from but most box cover labels are in Japanese so you will need to use the camera on Google Translate. You may want to check out some YouTube videos or online articles on the most popular hot and cold bento boxes. The least expensive bento is about $4 while the most expensive bento box is over $100. Spend time to figure out what you may want to try. Currently, one of the most popular train bento is the wagyu beef box.
Whenever I do not feel like purchasing bento at the Tokyo Station, I’ll walk to a nearby deli and grab a croissant, soft bread sandwich, salad bowl, and coffee to enjoy on the ride. Here are two of many places at Tokyo Station where I’ll get coffee, deli sandwiches and pastries before boarding the Shinkansen:
Another good option is to purchase your train ride food, snacks and drinks at 7/11 or Lawson. As you know, there are plenty of convenience stores in or next to the stations.
- Kyoto. If you plan to walk through Nishiki Market and want to sample the wagyu beef steak skewer, 3 piece shrimp skewer, shrimp tempura, crab, matcha tea ice cream cone with matcha warabi mochi on top, or whatever interests your family, do your homework on finding the best stalls and don’t overpay tourist prices. Avoid the peak crowds as you won’t see much other than the person’s head in front of you.
- Kyoto. As you know, there are plenty of good coffee cafes near your hotel and during casual walks. Here’s a few on my list:+ WEEKENDERS COFFEE TOMINOKOJI
+ Stumptown Coffee Roasters inside the Ace Hotel.
+ Blue Bottle Coffee - Kyoto Rokkaku Cafe. Find a second floor window seat during a lazy day.
+ Ogawa Coffee - Sakaimachi Nishiki. Known as a good place for breakfast
+ Kurasu Kyoto Stand near Kyoto Station. Coffee connoisseurs consistently recommend this place while visiting Kyoto Station.
+ % ARABICA Kyoto Arashiyama near the Togetsukyō Bridge. Good place for a coffee break.
+ Blue Bottle Coffee - Kyoto Cafe near Nanzenji Temple. I like the architectural design and layout. It is a good place to get away from the tourist crowds and relax before walking to the subway station.
+ Vermillion Cafe. A short uphill hike from Fushimi Inari Shrine.
- Kyoto. Traditional Kyoto meal:
Tsuki no Kurabito, located in the Fushimi sake warehouse district. It serves traditional Kyoto dishes and when I visited over ten years ago, it had no English menu but pictures of each dish or set. I found it to have a very Interesting atmosphere and the lunch meal set was very enjoyable for me.
- Kyoto. As you know, there are plenty of good coffee cafes near your hotel and during casual walks. Here’s a few on my list:+ WEEKENDERS COFFEE TOMINOKOJI
+ Stumptown Coffee Roasters inside the Ace Hotel.
+ Blue Bottle Coffee - Kyoto Rokkaku Cafe. Find a second floor window seat during a lazy day.
+ Ogawa Coffee - Sakaimachi Nishiki. Known as a good place for breakfast
+ Kurasu Kyoto Stand near Kyoto Station. Coffee connoisseurs consistently recommend this place while visiting Kyoto Station.
+ % ARABICA Kyoto Arashiyama near the Togetsukyō Bridge. Good place for a coffee break.
+ Blue Bottle Coffee - Kyoto Cafe near Nanzenji Temple. I like the architectural design and layout. It is a good place to get away from the tourist crowds and relax before walking to the subway station.
+ Vermillion Cafe. A short uphill hike from Fushimi Inari Shrine.
- Osaka. If you are planning to visit a rooftop observatory in Osaka, nearby is a massive underground shopping mall where shoppers go to get out of the rain and heat, search for restaurants, coffee cafes, and pastry shops.
- Hiroshima. As we discussed earlier, here’s the information from NHK Japan News about the new Hiroshima Station platform and shopping mall. The streetcar pickup location you used in 2023 has been demolished. After the beginning segment, advance to minute 12:37 to watch information about the new building until minute 28. The 6th floor of the Minamoa shopping mall has an array of restaurants and cafes if you are looking for a place before heading back to Kyoto on the Shinkansen.
- Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a short Shinkansen ride from Osaka to Himeji Station. Beware that admission fees have recently tripled. It’s a short walk or bus ride to the site grounds. On the way back to the station, you can walk through the covered shopping mall or walk street level along the main corridor. When I last went there with Steve, Pat, JoAnne and Claire, we ended up eating at the train station food court before taking the Shinkansen back to Kyoto. The only thing memorable about my meal was it was less than $6 for two entrees. Best to find a restaurant between the castle and station or wait until you get back to Osaka or Kyoto. The basement restaurant level at Shin-Osaka Station has some interesting restaurants and the main level has a lot of takeout fast food including 551 Horai, known for pork buns and pot stickers. The pork buns have a strong smell so you may want to refrain from eating them on the Shinkansen.
- Hakone. If you plan to visit Hakone and do the loop route, online articles said although you can take any direction, it implied that most visitors take the counterclockwise direction from Hakone-Yumoto Station. You may want to look into this. I would probably prefer to take a clockwise loop by first taking the Hakone-Tozan bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Hakone-machi Port. That way, you get the most confined transportation method out of the way and have the rest of the day with other transportation modes that don’t have capacity issues, have frequency, you don’t have to worry about missing the last bus and can spend more time walking around Owakudani, Hakone Open-Air Museum, and Hakone-Yumoto Station before taking the train to JR Odawara Station. If you decide not to go to the museum, Chef Nobu has a restaurant and brewpub near the Gora Station that I’ve never been to but curious about.
- Tokyo. Unless you are planning to visit the Skytree Tower or only the free Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observatory in Shinjuku, the Shibuya Sky observation roof is a popular 360 degree viewing option but requires advance ticket purchases with set entry times. It can be especially difficult to get tickets around sunset or when Mount Fuji is visible.
- Tokyo. When walking around Ginza near the Muji Flagship store and Ginza Itoya stationary store, go check out the OK Ginza grocery store. Hard to believe that amongst the expensive stores is a discount supermarket with very reasonable prices for groceries, drinks, especially bottled water, and takeout sushi and bento.
- Tokyo. Every Saturday and Sunday afternoon, the main shopping street in Ginza is closed to vehicular traffic so you will see a lot more foot traffic in the area. In Akihabara, the main street is closed to vehicular traffic every Sunday, which makes for a more pleasant pedestrian experience.
- Tokyo. If you happen to be walking outside of the Shinjuku Station, check out the giant 3D cat billboard.
There is also a series of 3D billboards near Shibuya Station that are on top of multiple buildings and are synced together. I could not locate them when we were there during the daylight hours in November 2023.
- Tokyo. Recall when the 2023 travel group left Shibuya Station by taking the JR Green line. We did so because Steve and Pat’s hotel was just off the JR Green line and we all had the JR Rail Pass. As a direct alternative, just use your Suica card to take the Ginza Line subway back to Ginza. The Ginza Line platform at Shibuya Station was reconstructed in 2020 but reconstruction and expansion of the entire station will continue for many years. Shibuya Station is another station that I can’t figure out and always get lost in.
- Tokyo. Take a ride on the driverless Yurikamome Line from Shimbashi Station to Toyosu Station then transfer to Yurakucho Line Subway to Ginza or reverse. The night views of the Rainbow Bridge and skyline are interesting.
If you want to see the Toyosu Fish Market Tuna Auction, you have to sign up online for a lottery one month in advance. If you are selected, you have to be on-site before 5:30 am. The free tour is from 5:45 am to 6:45 am.
- Narita Airport. After you check in baggage and before entering security/passport control to your departure gate, visit the two upper shopping mall levels with restaurants, stores and an outdoor observation deck. After security/passport control, a new food court was added well after our November 2023 trip.
- As you know and practice, traveling lightweight with only carry-on luggage and not oversized luggage is the best way while traveling on mass transit and walking around stations. If you have one large luggage, consider using the luggage courier forwarding services that are available at airports, hotels and convenience stores. Another option is to use a private limousine bus or taxi.
